Mending Help Desk

The Mending Help Desk is our blog to share inspiration and information on how to build your mending skills. You'll find tutorials, FAQs and guides for everything that's worth mending. To suggest a topic or tutorial, contact me :)

Takanohane-sashi in red

Takanohane-sashi in red

Once upon Instagram, @visiblemend mended a pair of pre-distressed jeans and then returned them to the store, tags on. Kate's kind of a legend, and I am not so generous as to put my mending back in the world in that particular way. But when I found this pair at the thrift store, that clearly came pre-distressed and then got a foot through the knee holes a few too many times, they fit me so nicely that I couldn't wait to get to reinforcing them.

Confession though, because personally, I do really like the distressed jeans look. "Natural" wear is always better of course, as I love how it broadcasts exactly how you live in those jeans. The factory distressing always looks super weird and contrived, like, who gets a hole mid-thigh? Especially in a pair boasting the notoriously short women's pockets...

I definitely can't look at the trend the same way after seeing that viral video of a garment factory worker covered from head to toe and beyond in blue fluff from grinding out these perfectly complete pairs of pants. Ghastly.

 

I learned this Sashiko stitch pattern from Kazue at SashikoLab.com, it is a pattern from the "24 Days of SASHIKO" email series that Kazue has offered annually since 2020. It is inspired by the feather patterns on a hawk's chest, which of course as a birder I adore. It was amazing to see the pattern emerge with each new line of stitching I layered on top.

 

鷹の羽刺し(Takanohane-sashi). “Taka” represents hawk and “hane” means feather in Japanese. So this pattern stands for hawk feathers. -- Kazue

There were a few points after which I would have been content to stop and not add any more rows of stitching, but I followed through right to the end and I'm so happy that I did.

As we established, the bottom of the knee-holes blew out along the fabric grainline, which I remedied with the Sashiko. After spending hours examining the garment while stitching, I noticed a few more impeding rips that I decided to reinforce with a darn!

These jeans are mostly cotton with that notorious 1-2% stretch that weakens the fabric considerably. I noticed a little gap at the top of the knee too, where the glistening elastane was peeking through. My half-circle patch has done well to stop that rip from going any further, and these jeans have enjoyed quite a lot of wear since I mended them over a year ago.

The thread I used is is mercerized crochet cotton. I've never used "real" Sashiko thread before due to my very stubborn secondhand-first/use-what-you-have ethos but I am sure it is great!!! In order to use this fine red yarn with my Swift Darning Loom, I held it double for a basketweave effect that I do adore. Holding thin yarn double is a great trick for using thin yarn such as this or lace weight wool when you want to maintain a balanced (rather than weft-faced) weave.

I always get so many compliments on these jeans and it makes me so happy, nothing like that sweet "fix, of acquaintance's compliments" (as a canadian I can't not be obsessed with The Beaches right now, sorry xo happy mending!!)

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